Temperatures

200-230 degrees in the nozzle and up to 60 degrees on the build plate. There are two primary factors influenced by the temperature:

• Layer adhesion. Layer adhesion increases with increased temperature. It is usually good for bed adhesion to also print the first layer a bit warmer than the rest of the model, on the nozzle as well as the print bed.
• Flow. With increased temperature, the flow increases (the viscosity decreases). This may have to be compensated with a somewhat increased retraction distance and retraction speed. Conversely, low-temp prints needs a bit less retraction. Always try to use as little retraction (distance and speed) as possible, so it just prevents the stringing you want to get rid of. This is especially important if you print with all-metal hotends.

• PEI/buildTak: Very good adhesion, even at lower build plate temp or even cold build plate
• Painter’s tape: Good and easy alternative if you do not have PEI or BuildTak.
• Heated glass: Works fine for small-area prints, but big print surfaces might need some help with hair spray or similar to keep the edges down during long prints. Also make sure the room temperature is ambient.

• Printspeed, flow and layer height: It is easier to get a higher visual quality with lower speeds and lower layer heights, which increases the resolution. Many times, though, it is desireable to produce ones print as fast as possible. The factor that need primary attention when increasing layer height and print speed is nozzle temperature. When the flow through the nozzle increases, there is less time for the plastic to melt, which then requires a somewhat increased temperature to achieve good results. We recommend 60mm/s and 0.15mm layer height with 0.95 extrusion multiplier as a starting point.
• Stringing: Is reduced with increased retraction distance and retraction speed. We recommend about 5mm for bowden and 2mm for direct drive, with a speed of about 30-40mm/s
• Heat creep: If an all-metal hotend is used, retraction needs to be decreased to about 1mm for direct drive and about 4mm for bowden. Also, the temperature needs to be increased about 10-15 degrees to avoid cloggs. At high print speeds (about 70-100mm/s), about 230 degrees might be needed. The reason for this is that the PLA creates friction against the metal feeding tube when it abruptly goes from print temp to ambient, which does not happen in a PTFE-tube. Also, make sure you have enough separation between the heat block and the heat break (2-3mm) so that the heat block is not transferring heat up in the heat break (see red marking):
  
• It is also possible to cure the HT-PLA prints in an oven for increased temp resistance and impact strength. It can be done in a regular oven at around 110°C. The time required depends on the size/volume/density of the print, from 15 min up to 1 hour.

Temperaturer

205-225 grader i munstycket och upp till 60 grader på byggplattan. Det finns tre primära faktorer som påverkas av temperaturen:

• Yta. Lägre temp ger mattare yta, högre temp ger glansigare yta
• Lagervidfästning. Lagervidfästningsstyrkan ökar något med ökad temperatur. Skriv gärna första lagret något varmare, både på munstycket och på byggplattan, för att öka fästet mot denna.
• Flöde. Med ökad temperatur ökar flödet (viskositeten går ned) och kan behöva kompenseras med minskad flow rate och ökad retraction. Motsvarande behöver då lågtemp-printar ibland något ökad flow rate och minskad retraction.

• PEI-skiva/buildTak: Väldigt bra fäste, även vid lägre byggplattetemp eller ouppvärmd platta
• Maskeringstejp: Bra och enkelt alternativ om man inte har PEI eller BuildTak
• Glas: Stora fästytor kan behöva hjälp med hårspray eller motsvarande för att inte tappa fäste i kanterna vid långa utskrifter

• Printhastighet och lagerhöjd: Det är lättare att få till en högre visuell kvalitet med lägre hastigheter och lägre lagerhöjder. Många gånger är det dock önskvärt att få fram sin utskrift så snabbt som möjligt. Faktorn som främst måste beaktas när man ökar lagerhöjd och utskriftshastighet är temperaturen i munstycket. Då genomflödet i munstycket ökar ges mindre tid att värma upp plasten, vilket då kräver något ökad temperatur för att behålla samma egenskaper. Vi rekommenderar 60mm/s och 0.15mm lagerhöjd som utgångspunkt
• Stringing: Reduceras med ökad retraction distance och retraction speed. Vi rekommenderar ca 5mm för bowden och ca 2mm för direktmatning med en hastighet på 30-40mm/s
• Heat creep: Om en all-metal hotend används, t.ex. från Micro Swiss eller E3D, måste retraction distance minskas till runt 1mm för direktmatning och 2mm för bowden. Dessutom måste temperaturen höjas 10-15 grader för att få ett bra flöde ner i munstycket. Vid väldigt hög utskriftshastighet (runt 100mm/s) kan temperaturer runt 240-250 grader krävas. Anledningen till detta är att metallen skapar friktion mot PLA:n då temperaturen abrupt övergår från printtemp till rumstemp, vilket inte sker i en teflontub.

Temperatures

225-260 degrees in the nozzle and up to 75 degrees on the build plate. There are two primary factors influenced by the temperature:

• Layer adhesion. Layer adhesion increases with increased temperature. It is usually good for bed adhesion to also print the first layer a bit warmer than the rest of the model, on the nozzle as well as the print bed.
• Flow. With increased temperature, the flow increases (the viscosity decreases). This may have to be compensated with a somewhat increased retraction distance and retraction speed. Conversely, low-temp prints needs a bit less retraction. Always try to use as little retraction (distance and speed) as possible, so it just prevents the stringing you want to get rid of.

• PEI/buildTak: Very good adhesion, even at lower build plate temp or even cold build plate
• Painter’s tape: Good and easy alternative if you do not have PEI or BuildTak.
• Heated glass: If the print does not stick, increase the temp in intervals of 5°C. Also make sure the room temperature is ambient.

• Fan: If you want a high visual quality on PETG prints but slightly less layer adhesion, use a lot of fan, but if you rather want stronger prints, use little or no fan.
• Printspeed and layer height: It is easier to get a higher visual quality with lower speeds and lower layer heights, which increases the resolution. Many times, though, it is desireable to produce ones print as fast as possible. The factor that need primary attention when increasing layer height and print speed is nozzle temperature. When the flow through the nozzle increases, there is less time for the plastic to melt, which then requires a somewhat increased temperature to achieve good results. We recommend 60mm/s and 0.15mm layer height as a starting point.
• Stringing: Is reduced with increased retraction distance and retraction speed. We recommend about 5mm for bowden and 2mm for direct drive, with a speed of about 30-40mm/s. Also have z-hops activated and turn combing mode off (in cura).

Temperatures

180-220 degrees in the nozzle and up to 70 degrees on the build plate. There are three primary factors influenced by the temperature:

• Surface. You can achieve more matteness with lower nozzle temp, and vice versa.
• Layer adhesion. Layer adhesion increases with increased temperature. It is usually good for bed adhesion to also print the first layer a bit warmer than the rest of the model, on the nozzle as well as the print bed.
• Flow. With increased temperature, the flow increases (the viscosity decreases). This may have to be compensated with a somewhat increased retraction distance and retraction speed. Conversely, low-temp prints needs a bit less retraction. Always try to use as little retraction (distance and speed) as possible, so it just prevents the stringing you want to get rid of. This is especially important if you print with all-metal hotends.

• PEI/buildTak: Very good adhesion, even at lower build plate temp or even cold build plate
• Painter’s tape: Good and easy alternative if you do not have PEI or BuildTak.
• Heated glass: Works fine for small-area prints, but big print surfaces might need some help with hair spray or similar to keep the edges down during long prints. Also make sure the room temperature is ambient.

• Printspeed, flow and layer height: It is easier to get a higher visual quality with lower speeds and lower layer heights, which increases the resolution. Many times, though, it is desireable to produce ones print as fast as possible. The factor that need primary attention when increasing layer height and print speed is nozzle temperature. When the flow through the nozzle increases, there is less time for the plastic to melt, which then requires a somewhat increased temperature to achieve good results. We recommend 60mm/s and 0.15mm layer height with 0.95 extrusion multiplier as a starting point.
• Stringing: Is reduced with increased retraction distance and retraction speed. We recommend about 5mm for bowden and 2mm for direct drive, with a speed of about 30-40mm/s
• Heat creep: If an all-metal hotend is used, retraction needs to be decreased to about 1.5mm for direct drive and about 4mm for bowden. Also, the temperature needs to be increased about 10-15 degrees to avoid cloggs. At high print speeds (about 70-100mm/s), about 230 degrees might be needed. The reason for this is that the PLA creates friction against the metal feeding tube when it abruptly goes from print temp to ambient, which does not happen in a PTFE-tube.

Temperatures and cooling

Since this material is based on PLA, only minor changes are required from the standard settings for PLA. The temperature and the fan can be varied depending on if strong layer adhesion or ease-to-post-process i preferred. For good layer adhesion, print at around 205°C and use not more than 20-30% fan. If ease-to-post-process is preferred, print at 190°C and 80-100% fan.

Build plate adhesion

The build plate temp should be as with normal PLA, none or up to 65°C depending on your surface. PEI or BuildTak is recommended

Quality

Quality is a complex area where hardware and slicer have big impact. Every new filament needs in general some tuning to achieve its full potential, usually through printing some calibration models and adjusting iteratively. We have gathered our favourites here. To troubleshoot specific issues, we would like to refer you to our material guide – here are some general quality tips though:

• Print speed, flow and layer height: As usual, lower layer heights and lower printing speeds yields higher detail sharpness, but takes longer time. We recommend to not go below 0.15mm. Recommended printing speed is 50mm/s, with a flow/extrusion multiplier of 0.9-0.95 to avoid over-pressure in the nozzle that could lead to clogs.
• Feeder tension: It is recommended to decrease the feeder tension slightly compared to default setting, to avoid grinding the filament as well as over-pressurizing the nozzle.
• Nozzles: It works with standard nozzle size of 0.4mm, but it is recommended to use 0.5mm or bigger to avoid clogging issues. If you are printing big objects (5h+) with a small nozzle (0.4mm), it is important to print at the lower end of the temp spectrum (185-190°C), keep retractions at a minimum and turn off the fan. The material is not abrasive on metal nozzles, and can be printed on standard nozzles.

Temperatures and cooling

Since this material is based on PLA, only minor changes are required from the standard settings for PLA. The temperature and the fan can be varied depending on if strong layer adhesion or ease-to-post-process i preferred. For good layer adhesion, print at around 205°C and use not more than 20-30% fan. If ease-to-post-process is preferred, print at 190°C and 80-100% fan.

Build plate adhesion

The build plate temp should be as with normal PLA, none or up to 65°C depending on your surface. PEI or BuildTak is recommended

Quality

Quality is a complex area where hardware and slicer have big impact. Every new filament needs in general some tuning to achieve its full potential, usually through printing some calibration models and adjusting iteratively. We have gathered our favourites here. To troubleshoot specific issues, we would like to refer you to our material guide – here are some general quality tips though:

• Print speed, flow and layer height: As usual, lower layer heights and lower printing speeds yields higher detail sharpness, but takes longer time. We recommend to not go below 0.15mm. Recommended printing speed is 50mm/s, with a flow/extrusion multiplier of 0.9-0.95 to avoid over-pressure in the nozzle that could lead to clogs.
  
  .
• Feeder tension: It is recommended to decrease the feeder tension slightly compared to default setting, to avoid grinding the filament as well as over-pressurizing the nozzle.
• Nozzles: It works with standard nozzle size of 0.4mm, but it is recommended to use 0.5mm or bigger to avoid clogging issues. If you are printing big objects (5h+) with a small nozzle (0.4mm), it is important to print at the lower end of the temp spectrum (185-190°C), keep retractions at a minimum and turn off the fan. The material is not abrasive on metal nozzles, and can be printed on standard nozzles.

Temperatures

195-225 degrees in the nozzle and up to 60 degrees on the build plate. There are two primary factors influenced by the temperature:

• Layer adhesion. Layer adhesion increases with increased temperature. It is usually good for bed adhesion to also print the first layer a bit warmer than the rest of the model, on the nozzle as well as the print bed.
• Flow. With increased temperature, the flow increases (the viscosity decreases). This may have to be compensated with a somewhat increased retraction distance and retraction speed. Conversely, low-temp prints needs a bit less retraction. Always try to use as little retraction (distance and speed) as possible, so it just prevents the stringing you want to get rid of. This is especially important if you print with all-metal hotends.

• PEI/buildTak: Very good adhesion, even at lower build plate temp or even cold build plate
• Painter’s tape: Good and easy alternative if you do not have PEI or BuildTak.
• Heated glass: Works fine for small-area prints, but big print surfaces might need some help with hair spray or similar to keep the edges down during long prints. Also make sure the room temperature is ambient.

• Printspeed, flow and layer height: It is easier to get a higher visual quality with lower speeds and lower layer heights, which increases the resolution. Many times, though, it is desireable to produce ones print as fast as possible. The factor that need primary attention when increasing layer height and print speed is nozzle temperature. When the flow through the nozzle increases, there is less time for the plastic to melt, which then requires a somewhat increased temperature to achieve good results. We recommend 60mm/s and 0.15mm layer height and 0.9-0.95 extrusion multiplier/flow as a starting point.
• Stringing: Is reduced with increased retraction distance and retraction speed. We recommend about 5mm for bowden and 2mm for direct drive, with a speed of about 30-40mm/s
• Heat creep: If an all-metal hotend is used, retraction needs to be decreased to about 1.5mm for direct drive and about 4mm for bowden. Also, the temperature needs to be increased about 10-15 degrees to avoid cloggs. Also remember to tune in the correct flow/extrusion multiplier, to avoid lumps building up in the nozzle. At high print speeds (about 70-100mm/s), about 230 degrees might be needed. The reason for this is that the PLA creates friction against the metal feeding tube when it abruptly goes from print temp to ambient, which does not happen in a PTFE-tube. Also, make sure you have enough separation between the heat block and the heat break (2-3mm) so that the heat block is not transferring heat up in the heat break.
  

Temperatures

245-260°C on the nozzle and 60-75°C on the build plate. There are two primary factors influenced by the temperature:

• Layer adhesion. Layer adhesion increases with increased temperature. It is usually good for bed adhesion to also print the first layer a bit warmer than the rest of the model, on the nozzle as well as the print bed.
• Flow. With increased temperature, the flow increases (the viscosity decreases). This may have to be compensated with a somewhat increased retraction distance and perhaps decreased flow rate. Conversely, low-temp prints needs a bit less retraction and perhaps more flow. Always try to use as little retraction (distance and speed) as possible, so it just prevents the stringing you want to get rid of.

• Fan: None
• Printspeed and layer height: It is easier to get a higher visual quality with lower speeds and lower layer heights, which increases the resolution. Many times, though, it is desireable to produce ones print as fast as possible. The factor that need primary attention when increasing layer height and print speed is nozzle temperature. When the flow through the nozzle increases, there is less time for the plastic to melt, which then requires a somewhat increased temperature to achieve good results. We recommend 45mm/s and 0.15mm layer height as a starting point.
• Heated/enclosed print chamber: Adura™ performs even better with a heated/enclosed print chamber, so as to give the layers more time to bond, but it is not a requirement for it to work – great results can easily be achieved with open printers as well.
• Stringing: Is reduced with increased retraction distance and retraction speed. We recommend about 5mm for bowden and 1mm for direct drive, with a speed of about 20-30mm/s.

Temperatures

230-260°C on the nozzle and 100-110°C on the build plate. There are two primary factors influenced by the temperature:

• Layer adhesion. Layer adhesion increases with increased temperature. It is usually good for bed adhesion to also print the first layer a bit warmer than the rest of the model, on the nozzle as well as the print bed.
• Flow. With increased temperature, the flow increases (the viscosity decreases). This may have to be compensated with a somewhat increased retraction distance and perhaps decreased flow rate. Conversely, low-temp prints needs a bit less retraction and perhaps more flow. Always try to use as little retraction (distance and speed) as possible, so it just prevents the stringing you want to get rid of.

• PEI/buildTak: Good adhesion, could require som slurry
• Painter’s tape: Good and easy alternative if you do not have PEI or BuildTak, slurry might be needed.
• Heated glass: count on some slurry usage

• Fan: If you want a high visual quality on ABS prints but slightly less layer adhesion, use a little fan, but if you rather want stronger prints, no fan, which should be the default for ABS-printing.
• Printspeed and layer height: It is easier to get a higher visual quality with lower speeds and lower layer heights, which increases the resolution. Many times, though, it is desireable to produce ones print as fast as possible. The factor that need primary attention when increasing layer height and print speed is nozzle temperature. When the flow through the nozzle increases, there is less time for the plastic to melt, which then requires a somewhat increased temperature to achieve good results. We recommend 60mm/s and 0.15mm layer height as a starting point.
• Stringing: Is reduced with increased retraction distance and retraction speed. We recommend about 5mm for bowden and 1mm for direct drive, with a speed of about 30-40mm/s.

Temperatures

260-280°C on the nozzle and 60-75°C on the build plate. There are two primary factors influenced by the temperature:

• Layer adhesion. Layer adhesion increases with increased temperature. It is usually good for bed adhesion to also print the first layer a bit warmer than the rest of the model, on the nozzle as well as the print bed.
• Flow. With increased temperature, the flow increases (the viscosity decreases). This may have to be compensated with a somewhat increased retraction distance and perhaps decreased flow rate. Conversely, low-temp prints needs a bit less retraction and perhaps more flow. Always try to use as little retraction (distance and speed) as possible, so it just prevents the stringing you want to get rid of.

• Fan: None
• Printspeed and layer height: It is easier to get a higher visual quality with lower speeds and lower layer heights, which increases the resolution. Many times, though, it is desireable to produce ones print as fast as possible. The factor that need primary attention when increasing layer height and print speed is nozzle temperature. When the flow through the nozzle increases, there is less time for the plastic to melt, which then requires a somewhat increased temperature to achieve good results. We recommend 45mm/s and 0.15mm layer height as a starting point.
• Heated/enclosed print chamber: Adura™X performs even better with a heated/enclosed print chamber, so as to give the layers more time to bond, but it is not a requirement for it to work – great results can easily be achieved with open printers as well.
• Stringing: Is reduced with increased retraction distance and retraction speed. We recommend about 5mm for bowden and 1mm for direct drive, with a speed of about 20-30mm/s.
• Nozzle wear: The added carbon fibers may result in nozzle wear due to its abrasiveness. It is recommended to use a hardened nozzle, like the NozzleX, or a ruby nozzle, like the Olsson Ruby, to prevent nozzle wear during printing.

Temperatures

245-260°C on the nozzle and 60-75°C on the build plate. There are two primary factors influenced by the temperature:

• Layer adhesion. Layer adhesion increases with increased temperature. It is usually good for bed adhesion to also print the first layer a bit warmer than the rest of the model, on the nozzle as well as the print bed.
• Flow. With increased temperature, the flow increases (the viscosity decreases). This may have to be compensated with a somewhat increased retraction distance and perhaps decreased flow rate. Conversely, low-temp prints needs a bit less retraction and perhaps more flow. Always try to use as little retraction (distance and speed) as possible, so it just prevents the stringing you want to get rid of.

• Fan: None
• Printspeed and layer height: It is easier to get a higher visual quality with lower speeds and lower layer heights, which increases the resolution. Many times, though, it is desireable to produce ones print as fast as possible. The factor that need primary attention when increasing layer height and print speed is nozzle temperature. When the flow through the nozzle increases, there is less time for the plastic to melt, which then requires a somewhat increased temperature to achieve good results. We recommend 45mm/s and 0.15mm layer height as a starting point.
• Heated/enclosed print chamber: Adura™ performs even better with a heated/enclosed print chamber, so as to give the layers more time to bond, but it is not a requirement for it to work – great results can easily be achieved with open printers as well.
• Stringing: Is reduced with increased retraction distance and retraction speed. We recommend about 5mm for bowden and 1mm for direct drive, with a speed of about 20-30mm/s.

Nozzle temp: 240-260°C
Build plate temp: 50-60°C

Speed: 20-40mm/s

Flow: 102-105%

Fan: Minimal, 10s minimum layer time, dynamic fan to 100% for small detalis.

Tips: Decrease printer acceleration and jerk if possible, since its high density decreases the flow compared to PLA or PETG.

Important: Never exceed 300°C in print temp, and run on dedicated nozzle if materials over 300°C are used in the same printer.

Nozzle: 245-265°C Bed: 60-70°C

Fan: 0-50%

Speed: 30-50mm/s

To get maximum strength, make sure the filament is dry. If you suspect increased humidity in the filament, dry it in an oven or similar at around 65°C for 3-4 hours.

Printing with carbon fibers requires a hardened nozzle, like our NozzleX

Nozzle temp: 265-280°C
Bed temp: 100°C
Apply a thin layer of PVA glue for adhesion

Due to its high viscosity, print speed should not exceed 20mm/s and acceleration should be limited to 250mm/s2
Flow is recommended at 105-110%

Recommended nozzle size is >0.6mm diameter

Temperatures

255-275°C on the nozzle and 60-75°C on the build plate. There are two primary factors influenced by the temperature:

• Layer adhesion. Layer adhesion increases with increased temperature. It is usually good for bed adhesion to also print the first layer a bit warmer than the rest of the model, on the nozzle as well as the print bed.
• Flow. With increased temperature, the flow increases (the viscosity decreases). This may have to be compensated with a somewhat increased retraction distance and perhaps decreased flow rate. Conversely, low-temp prints needs a bit less retraction and perhaps more flow. Always try to use as little retraction (distance and speed) as possible, so it just prevents the stringing you want to get rid of.

• Fan: None
• Printspeed and layer height: It is easier to get a higher visual quality with lower speeds and lower layer heights, which increases the resolution. Many times, though, it is desireable to produce ones print as fast as possible. The factor that need primary attention when increasing layer height and print speed is nozzle temperature. When the flow through the nozzle increases, there is less time for the plastic to melt, which then requires a somewhat increased temperature to achieve good results. We recommend 45mm/s and 0.15mm layer height as a starting point.
• Heated/enclosed print chamber: Addbor N25 performs even better with a heated/enclosed print chamber, so as to give the layers more time to bond, but it is not a requirement for it to work – great results can easily be achieved with open printers as well.
• Stringing: Is reduced with increased retraction distance and retraction speed. We recommend about 5mm for bowden and 1mm for direct drive, with a speed of about 20-30mm/s.
• Nozzle wear: The added carbon fibers may result in nozzle wear due to its abrasiveness. It is recommended to use a hardened nozzle, like a ruby nozzle, to prevent nozzle wear during printing.

Use regular PETG-settings with the following modifications:

Print temp: 225-260°C Bed temp: No with special surface, or up to 80°C on glass

Print speed: 25-45 mm/s
Make sure the material is dry when using it, for maximum performance. If it has been exposed to normal air humidity for a longer period of time, dry in at 65°C for about 4 hours in an oven or similar.

Printtemp: 230-250°C Bed temp: no or up to 50°C

Print speed: 20 - 40mm/s Fan: 0-50%
Make sure the filament is dry before using it, since TPU is mildly sensitive to humidity. If deemed humid, dry at 50°C for 2-3 hours.