Print guide HT-PLA Back

Temperatures

200-230 degrees in the nozzle and up to 60 degrees on the build plate. There are two primary factors influenced by the temperature:

• Layer adhesion. Layer adhesion increases with increased temperature. It is usually good for bed ashesion to also print the first layer a bit warmer than the rest of the model, on the nozzle as well as the print bed.
• Flow. With increased temperature, the flow increases (the viscosity decreases). This may have to be compensated with a somewhat increased retraction distance and retraction speed. Conversely, low-temp prints needs a bit less retraction. Always try to use as little retraction (distance and speed) as possible, so it just prevents the stringing you want to get rid of. This is especially important if you print with all-metal hotends.

We recommend you to print a temptower when first using a new material, to find the sweetspot of your printer.

Build plate adhesion

HT-PLA is relatively easy to get to stick to most build plates, as long as the build plate is correctly leveld against the nozzle. A correctly leveled build plate when printing HT-PLA is close enough for the material to squeeze out on the platform, but not too close so as to prevent the material from extruding at all. First layer height can be increased a bit to make it less sensitive to the leveling. If you need more adhesion, a brim of about 3-5mm is recommended. Surfaces that works well with HT-PLA:

• PEI/buildTak: Very good adhesion, even at lower build plate temp or even cold build plate
• Painter’s tape: Good and easy alternative if you do not have PEI or BuildTak.
• Heated glass: Works fine for small-area prints, but big print surfaces might need some help with hair spray or similar to keep the edges down during long prints. Also make sure the room temperature is ambient.

Quality

Quality is a complex area where hardware and slicer have big impact. Every new filament needs in general some tuning to achieve its full potential, usually through printing some calibration models and adjusting iteratively. We have gathered our favourites here. To troubleshoot specific issues, we would like to refer you to our material guide – here are some general quality tips though:

• Printspeed, flow and layer height: It is easier to get a higher visual quality with lower speeds and lower layer heights, which increases the resolution. Many times, though, it is desireable to produce ones print as fast as possible. The factor that need primary attention when increasing layer height and print speed is nozzle temperature. When the flow through the nozzle increases, there is less time for the plastic to melt, which then requires a somewhat increased temperature to achieve good results. We recommend 60mm/s and 0.15mm layer height with 0.95 extrusion multiplier as a starting point.
• Stringing: Is reduced with increased retraction distance and retraction speed. We recommend about 5mm for bowden and 2mm for direct drive, with a speed of about 30-40mm/s
• Heat creep: If an all-metal hotend is used, retraction needs to be decreased to about 1.5mm for direct drive and about 4mm for bowden. Also, the temperature needs to be increased about 10-15 degrees to avoid cloggs. At high print speeds (about 70-100mm/s), about 230 degrees might be needed. The reason for this is that the PLA creates friction against the metal feeding tube when it abruptly goes from print temp to ambient, which does not happen in a PTFE-tube.
• It is also possible to cure the HT-PLA prints in an oven for increased temp resistance and impact strength. It can be done in a regular oven at around 110°C. The time required depends on the size/volume/density of the print, from 15 min up to 1 hour.

Print guide Amphora™ Back

Temperatures

220-240 degrees in the nozzle and up to 80 degrees on the build plate. There are two primary factors influenced by the temperature:

• Layer adhesion. Layer adhesion increases with increased temperature. It is usually good for bed ashesion to also print the first layer a bit warmer than the rest of the model, on the nozzle as well as the print bed.
• Flow. With increased temperature, the flow increases (the viscosity decreases). This may have to be compensated with a somewhat increased retraction distance and retraction speed. Conversely, low-temp prints needs a bit less retraction. Always try to use as little retraction (distance and speed) as possible, so it just prevents the stringing you want to get rid of.

We recommend to print a temptower when first using a new material, to find the sweetspot of your printer.

Build plate adhesion

Amphora requires the build plate to not be to tightly leveled to the nozzle. A correctly calibrated build plate for Amphora is when the nozzle is about one layer height away from the platform so that the plastic is not squeezed out, but rather is laid down in clean strings in the first layer. Otherwise, plastic residue might accumulate on the nozzle and follow it around and stick to the following layer which decreases the print quality. Surfaces that works well with Amphora:

• PEI/buildTak: Very good adhesion, even at lower build plate temp or even cold build plate
• Painter’s tape: Good and easy alternative if you do not have PEI or BuildTak.
• Heated glass: If the print does not stick, increase the temp in intervals of 5°C. Also make sure the room temperature is ambient.

Quality

Quality is a complex area where hardware and slicer have big impact. Every new filament needs in general some tuning to achieve its full potential, usually through printing some calibration models and adjusting iteratively. We have gathered our favourites here. To troubleshoot specific issues, we would like to refer you to our material guide – here are some general quality tips though:

• Fan: If you want a high visual quality on Amphora prints but slightly less layer adhesion, use a lot of fan, but if you rather want stronger prints, use little or no fan.
• Printspeed and layer height: It is easier to get a higher visual quality with lower speeds and lower layer heights, which increases the resolution. Many times, though, it is desireable to produce ones print as fast as possible. The factor that need primary attention when increasing layer height and print speed is nozzle temperature. When the flow through the nozzle increases, there is less time for the plastic to melt, which then requires a somewhat increased temperature to achieve good results. We recommend 60mm/s and 0.15mm layer height as a starting point.
• Stringing: Is reduced with increased retraction distance and retraction speed. We recommend about 5mm for bowden and 2mm for direct drive, with a speed of about 30-40mm/s
• Drying: If the material is perceived as weak or brittle in printed form, it probably needs to be dried to regain its optimal characteristics: 70 degrees in 2-4 hours.

Print guide PETG Back

Temperatures

225-260 degrees in the nozzle and up to 75 degrees on the build plate. There are two primary factors influenced by the temperature:

• Layer adhesion. Layer adhesion increases with increased temperature. It is usually good for bed ashesion to also print the first layer a bit warmer than the rest of the model, on the nozzle as well as the print bed.
• Flow. With increased temperature, the flow increases (the viscosity decreases). This may have to be compensated with a somewhat increased retraction distance and retraction speed. Conversely, low-temp prints needs a bit less retraction. Always try to use as little retraction (distance and speed) as possible, so it just prevents the stringing you want to get rid of.

We recommend to print a temptower when first using a new material, to find the sweetspot of your printer.

Build plate adhesion

PETG requires the build plate to not be to tightly leveled to the nozzle. A correctly calibrated build plate for PETG is when the nozzle is about one layer height away from the platform so that the plastic is not squeezed out, but rather is laid down in clean strings in the first layer. Otherwise, plastic residue might accumulate on the nozzle and follow it around and stick to the following layer which decreases the print quality. Surfaces that works well with PETG:

• PEI/buildTak: Very good adhesion, even at lower build plate temp or even cold build plate
• Painter’s tape: Good and easy alternative if you do not have PEI or BuildTak.
• Heated glass: If the print does not stick, increase the temp in intervals of 5°C. Also make sure the room temperature is ambient.

Quality

Quality is a complex area where hardware and slicer have big impact. Every new filament needs in general some tuning to achieve its full potential, usually through printing some calibration models and adjusting iteratively. We have gathered our favourites here. To troubleshoot specific issues, we would like to refer you to our material guide – here are some general quality tips though:

• Fan: If you want a high visual quality on PETG prints but slightly less layer adhesion, use a lot of fan, but if you rather want stronger prints, use little or no fan.
• Printspeed and layer height: It is easier to get a higher visual quality with lower speeds and lower layer heights, which increases the resolution. Many times, though, it is desireable to produce ones print as fast as possible. The factor that need primary attention when increasing layer height and print speed is nozzle temperature. When the flow through the nozzle increases, there is less time for the plastic to melt, which then requires a somewhat increased temperature to achieve good results. We recommend 60mm/s and 0.15mm layer height as a starting point.
• Stringing: Is reduced with increased retraction distance and retraction speed. We recommend about 5mm for bowden and 2mm for direct drive, with a speed of about 30-40mm/s. Also have z-hops activated and turn combing mode off (in cura).

Print guide X-PLA Back

Temperatures

180-220 degrees in the nozzle and up to 70 degrees on the build plate. There are three primary factors influenced by the temperature:

• Surface. You can achieve more matteness with lower nozzle temp, and vice versa.
• Layer adhesion. Layer adhesion increases with increased temperature. It is usually good for bed ashesion to also print the first layer a bit warmer than the rest of the model, on the nozzle as well as the print bed.
• Flow. With increased temperature, the flow increases (the viscosity decreases). This may have to be compensated with a somewhat increased retraction distance and retraction speed. Conversely, low-temp prints needs a bit less retraction. Always try to use as little retraction (distance and speed) as possible, so it just prevents the stringing you want to get rid of. This is especially important if you print with all-metal hotends.

We recommend you to print a temptower when first using a new material, to find the sweetspot of your printer.

Build plate adhesion

X-PLA is relatively easy to get to stick to most build plates, as long as the build plate is correctly leveld against the nozzle. A correctly leveled build plate when printing X-PLA is close enough for the material to squeeze out on the platform, but not too close so as to prevent the material from extruding at all. First layer height can be increased a bit to make it less sensitive to the leveling. If you need more adhesion, a brim of about 3-5mm is recommended. Surfaces that works well with X-PLA:

• PEI/buildTak: Very good adhesion, even at lower build plate temp or even cold build plate
• Painter’s tape: Good and easy alternative if you do not have PEI or BuildTak.
• Heated glass: Works fine for small-area prints, but big print surfaces might need some help with hair spray or similar to keep the edges down during long prints. Also make sure the room temperature is ambient.

Quality

Quality is a complex area where hardware and slicer have big impact. Every new filament needs in general some tuning to achieve its full potential, usually through printing some calibration models and adjusting iteratively. We have gathered our favourites here. To troubleshoot specific issues, we would like to refer you to our material guide – here are some general quality tips though:

• Printspeed, flow and layer height: It is easier to get a higher visual quality with lower speeds and lower layer heights, which increases the resolution. Many times, though, it is desireable to produce ones print as fast as possible. The factor that need primary attention when increasing layer height and print speed is nozzle temperature. When the flow through the nozzle increases, there is less time for the plastic to melt, which then requires a somewhat increased temperature to achieve good results. We recommend 60mm/s and 0.15mm layer height with 0.95 extrusion multiplier as a starting point.
• Stringing: Is reduced with increased retraction distance and retraction speed. We recommend about 5mm for bowden and 2mm for direct drive, with a speed of about 30-40mm/s
• Heat creep: If an all-metal hotend is used, retraction needs to be decreased to about 1.5mm for direct drive and about 4mm for bowden. Also, the temperature needs to be increased about 10-15 degrees to avoid cloggs. At high print speeds (about 70-100mm/s), about 230 degrees might be needed. The reason for this is that the PLA creates friction against the metal feeding tube when it abruptly goes from print temp to ambient, which does not happen in a PTFE-tube.

Print guide Textura™ Back

Temperatures and cooling

Since this material is based on PLA, only minor changes are required from the standard settings for PLA. The temperature and the fan can be varied depending on if strong layer adhesion or ease-to-post-process i preferred. For good layer adhesion, print at around 205°C and use not more than 20-30% fan. If ease-to-post-process is preferred, print at 190°C and 80-100% fan.

Build plate adhesion

The build plate temp should be as with normal PLA, none or up to 65°C depending on your surface. PEI or BuildTak is recommended

Quality

Quality is a complex area where hardware and slicer have big impact. Every new filament needs in general some tuning to achieve its full potential, usually through printing some calibration models and adjusting iteratively. We have gathered our favourites here. To troubleshoot specific issues, we would like to refer you to our material guide – here are some general quality tips though:

• Print speed, flow and layer height: As usual, lower layer heights and lower printing speeds yields higher detail sharpness, but takes longer time. We recommend to not go below 0.15mm. Recommended printing speed is 50mm/s, with a flow/extrusion multiplier of 0.9-0.95 to avoid over-pressure in the nozzle that could lead to clogs.
  
  
• Feeder tension: It is recommended to decrease the feeder tension slightly compared to default setting, to avoid grinding the filament as well as over-pressurizing the nozzle.
• Nozzles: It works with standard nozzle size of 0.4mm, but it is recommended to use 0.5mm or bigger to avoid clogging issues. If you are printing big objects (5h+) with a small nozzle (0.4mm), it is important to print at the lower end of the temp spectrum (185-190°C), keep retractions at a minimum and turn off the fan. The material is not abrasive on metal nozzles, and can be printed on standard nozzles.

Remember to clean out the nozzle after the print to get rid of any fiber residues, and to keep the filament dry.

Print guide Textura™ Flare Back

Temperatures and cooling

Since this material is based on PLA, only minor changes are required from the standard settings for PLA. The temperature and the fan can be varied depending on if strong layer adhesion or ease-to-post-process i preferred. For good layer adhesion, print at around 205°C and use not more than 20-30% fan. If ease-to-post-process is preferred, print at 190°C and 80-100% fan.

Build plate adhesion

The build plate temp should be as with normal PLA, none or up to 65°C depending on your surface. PEI or BuildTak is recommended

Quality

Quality is a complex area where hardware and slicer have big impact. Every new filament needs in general some tuning to achieve its full potential, usually through printing some calibration models and adjusting iteratively. We have gathered our favourites here. To troubleshoot specific issues, we would like to refer you to our material guide – here are some general quality tips though:

• Print speed, flow and layer height: As usual, lower layer heights and lower printing speeds yields higher detail sharpness, but takes longer time. We recommend to not go below 0.15mm. Recommended printing speed is 50mm/s, with a flow/extrusion multiplier of 0.9-0.95 to avoid over-pressure in the nozzle that could lead to clogs.
  
  .
• Feeder tension: It is recommended to decrease the feeder tension slightly compared to default setting, to avoid grinding the filament as well as over-pressurizing the nozzle.
• Nozzles: It works with standard nozzle size of 0.4mm, but it is recommended to use 0.5mm or bigger to avoid clogging issues. If you are printing big objects (5h+) with a small nozzle (0.4mm), it is important to print at the lower end of the temp spectrum (185-190°C), keep retractions at a minimum and turn off the fan. The material is not abrasive on metal nozzles, and can be printed on standard nozzles.

Remember to clean out the nozzle after the print to get rid of any fiber residues, and to keep the filament dry.

Print guide E-PLA Back

Temperatures

195-225 degrees in the nozzle and up to 60 degrees on the build plate. There are two primary factors influenced by the temperature:

• Layer adhesion. Layer adhesion increases with increased temperature. It is usually good for bed ashesion to also print the first layer a bit warmer than the rest of the model, on the nozzle as well as the print bed.
• Flow. With increased temperature, the flow increases (the viscosity decreases). This may have to be compensated with a somewhat increased retraction distance and retraction speed. Conversely, low-temp prints needs a bit less retraction. Always try to use as little retraction (distance and speed) as possible, so it just prevents the stringing you want to get rid of. This is especially important if you print with all-metal hotends.

We recommend to print a temptower when first using a new material, to find the sweetspot of your printer.

Build plate adhesion

E-PLA is relatively easy to get to stick to most build plates, as long as the build plate is correctly leveld against the nozzle. A correctly leveled build plate when printing E-PLA is close enough for the material to squeeze out on the platform, but not too close so as to prevent the material from extruding at all. First layer height can be increased a bit to make it less sensitive to the leveling. If you need more adhesion, a brim of about 3-5mm is recommended. Surfaces that works well with E-PLA:

• PEI/buildTak: Very good adhesion, even at lower build plate temp or even cold build plate
• Painter’s tape: Good and easy alternative if you do not have PEI or BuildTak.
• Heated glass: Works fine for small-area prints, but big print surfaces might need some help with hair spray or similar to keep the edges down during long prints. Also make sure the room temperature is ambient.

Quality

Quality is a complex area where hardware and slicer have big impact. Every new filament needs in general some tuning to achieve its full potential, usually through printing some calibration models and adjusting iteratively. We have gathered our favourites here. To troubleshoot specific issues, we would like to refer you to our material guide – here are some general quality tips though:

• Printspeed, flow and layer height: It is easier to get a higher visual quality with lower speeds and lower layer heights, which increases the resolution. Many times, though, it is desireable to produce ones print as fast as possible. The factor that need primary attention when increasing layer height and print speed is nozzle temperature. When the flow through the nozzle increases, there is less time for the plastic to melt, which then requires a somewhat increased temperature to achieve good results. We recommend 60mm/s and 0.15mm layer height and 0.9-0.95 extrusion multiplier/flow as a starting point.
• Stringing: Is reduced with increased retraction distance and retraction speed. We recommend about 5mm for bowden and 2mm for direct drive, with a speed of about 30-40mm/s
• Heat creep: If an all-metal hotend is used, retraction needs to be decreased to about 1.5mm for direct drive and about 4mm for bowden. Also, the temperature needs to be increased about 10-15 degrees to avoid cloggs. Also remember to tune in the correct flow/extrusion multiplier, to avoid lumps building up in the nozzle. At high print speeds (about 70-100mm/s), about 230 degrees might be needed. The reason for this is that the PLA creates friction against the metal feeding tube when it abruptly goes from print temp to ambient, which does not happen in a PTFE-tube.

Print guide rABS Back

Temperatures

230-260°C on the nozzle and 100-110°C on the build plate. There are two primary factors influenced by the temperature:

• Layer adhesion. Layer adhesion increases with increased temperature. It is usually good for bed ashesion to also print the first layer a bit warmer than the rest of the model, on the nozzle as well as the print bed.
• Flow. With increased temperature, the flow increases (the viscosity decreases). This may have to be compensated with a somewhat increased retraction distance and perhaps decreased flow rate. Conversely, low-temp prints needs a bit less retraction and perhaps more flow. Always try to use as little retraction (distance and speed) as possible, so it just prevents the stringing you want to get rid of.

We recommend to print a temptower when first using a new material, to find the sweetspot of your printer.

Build plate adhesion

ABS requires the build plate to be able to heat to around 100°C. A correctly calibrated build plate for ABS is when the nozzle is tight on the platform so that the plastic is squeezed out a bit in the first layer. For bigger prints, an ABS-slurry might be needed for better adhesion. This slurry is made by dissolving some bits of ABS in acetone, then applying a thin layer on the print bed. It is also recommended to have an enclosed print chamber to decrease the warping. Surfaces that works well with ABS:

• PEI/buildTak: Good adhesion, could require som slurry
• Painter’s tape: Good and easy alternative if you do not have PEI or BuildTak, slurry might be needed.
• Heated glass: count on some slurry usage

Quality

Quality is a complex area where hardware and slicer have big impact. Every new filament needs in general some tuning to achieve its full potential, usually through printing some calibration models and adjusting iteratively. We have gathered our favourites here. To troubleshoot specific issues, we would like to refer you to our material guide – here are some general quality tips though:

• Fan: If you want a high visual quality on ABS prints but slightly less layer adhesion, use a little fan, but if you rather want stronger prints, no fan, which should be the default for ABS-printing.
• Printspeed and layer height: It is easier to get a higher visual quality with lower speeds and lower layer heights, which increases the resolution. Many times, though, it is desireable to produce ones print as fast as possible. The factor that need primary attention when increasing layer height and print speed is nozzle temperature. When the flow through the nozzle increases, there is less time for the plastic to melt, which then requires a somewhat increased temperature to achieve good results. We recommend 60mm/s and 0.15mm layer height as a starting point.
• Stringing: Is reduced with increased retraction distance and retraction speed. We recommend about 5mm for bowden and 1mm for direct drive, with a speed of about 30-40mm/s.